My latest effort to see as much of Latvia as possible took me to charming little Kuldiga, a perfectly preserved medieval town in the western part of the country. Kuldiga’s castle might be long gone, but the rest of the city is virtually unchanged, from its street layout to its centuries-old wooden buildings with red clay roofs. The town is so special, in fact, that it’s on a tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage status. If it weren’t for the cars and satellite dishes, you’d swear you’d been transported back to the 17th century. Kuldiga is a living time capsule!
Affectionately known as the “Venice of Latvia,” Kuldiga’s central feature is the Aleksupite River that gently wends its way through the old town. The Aleksupite, which drops steeply before running into the larger Venta River, once powered a paper mill. Today, the river provides a scenic home for the local ducks.
The Venta River, which flows from Lithuania all the way to the Baltic Sea, is a spanned by the Ventas Rumba, the widest waterfall in Europe. It may be only two meters high, but it’s impressive all the same. Be sure to get up in time to watch the sun rise over the waterfall – this is much easier to do on shorter winter days. In the summer, pack your swimsuit and take a dip with the locals.
Another can’t-miss attraction is the Kuldiga District Museum which reopened in 2014 after extensive restorations. Housed in a pretty wooden building with views of the Ventas Rumba, the Museum is spread over three floors, though it’s the second that’s the star. It’s been set up as a fully furnished home, giving visitors a glimpse into the life a wealthy family from the early 20th century. As my friend and I were the only two visitors at the time, the costumed staff took us on a personal tour! The ground and second floors feature rotating exhibits – when I visited, the subjects were tea and the Belgian army’s role in WWII.
Kuldiga is arranged around three main public squares, with a pedestrian street running through the center. Though for all the cars I saw during my stay, every street might as well be pedestrian-only. Kuldiga might be best described as “sleepy.”
Dining options in Kuldiga are somewhat limited, especially during the winter season. The most highly recommended restaurant was closed for renovations so I opted for Goldingen Room, a classy brick-oven pizzeria named after the town’s original German moniker.
Kuldiga is located about 100 kilometers from Riga, though it took about 3.5 hours to get there on the local bus. A Riga taxi driver offered to take me to Kuldiga for 100 euros, but the bus cost just six euros and provided a pleasant glimpse of tiny villages and pastoral countryside.
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Is Kuldiga, Latvia a place you’d like to visit?
Looks like you got a nice couple of days for it – Kuldiga was probably my favourite place outside Riga as well 🙂 Depressing to see so few people around though!
The weather was great, only starting to rain as we left. It was sad to see such a charming place so empty, though there were a handful of other tourists out and about. If only it were on a train line!
I was a Peace Corps Volunteer in Latvia from 1997 to 1999. I’ve been back several times, most recently in June of 2014. It is an extraordinary city and I’m so VERY pleased that you have written this article to spotlight it. Thank you.
Wow, Monica, that must have been a very interesting time to have been in Latvia! I bet the country has changed a lot since then! Though the bus driver did hand deliver a package from someone in Riga to someone in Sabile 🙂
Great pictures as usual. What a quaint place to visit.
Wonder if it gets more tourists in the summer? The sunrise
over the falls was spectacular. Hard to believe all those
wooden houses are still standing. I loved the second floor
of the museum. I love seeing how people lived in the past.
Great blog!!!!!!
It does get busy in summer, it get’s overrun with artists as well. The town does at times looks very, very sleepy, and even though small places struggle for workplaces (and this town used to have some factories) – the picturesque qualities of town atract a different kind of people – creatives, that can work from home, or people with families, who can run their business and not be all the time in Riga. Town council seems to have good people that care too.
As for eating ou – I somewhat don’t like ROOM, but recommend Bangert’s near Ventas rumba, Pie Daigas Bakery and Kafenīte on the Liepājas street (haven’t been since september though)).
That’s good to know about the town council, the place certainly seemed well cared for. I’d love to return and delve more into the artist culture! I’ve been very impressed with the artwork and handicrafts in Latvia. And thanks for the restaurant recommendations. I saw Bangert’s, but for some reason had the impression that it was a nightclub. LOL!
)). And I forgot Pagrabiņš on the Alekšupīte! (on www it says they are closed for renovation til June 1st.) . And if you go by car, I always have a pitstop in Kandava (100km from Rīga), the town is uphill from road (to the other side is Abava river).
Kuldīga is 158km by the way…
Ah, I love that place…
I saw Pagrabins and wanted to try it, but workers were putting on a new roof. Kandava is on my list!
Sounds like it’s time for you to make a return visit 😉
Heather,
It’s really nice to see such a well-written, sensitive text about this lovely town. I had myself the chance to visit Kuldīga last June and it was definitely the highlight of my and my girlfriend’s days in Latvia. The atmosphere is really unique. I wish I could have a few millions of dollars to invest in this town and restore some of its beautiful buildings. At the same time I feel it has a great potential for tourism, maybe the fact Kuldīga has more cats than people (locals + tourists) should be kept.
Greetings from southern Brazil,
Bruno
Hi Bruno, thanks for your comment! There is something very special about Kuldiga, isn’t there? Full UNESCO status will certainly provide the funds to fix the place up, but it might lose some of its charm as a result. Definitely a double-edged sword!
Hi!
What a nice article and great pictures!
I’ve been to Kuldiga many times since my girlfriend is Latvian and her family lives there. I would recommend going there in the summer and combine it with a roadtrip exploring Kurzeme and the coastline. Kuldiga in the summertime is a very special and relaxing place to visit with its flower gardens and historical buildings. We rented a cabin just across the bridge next to the river Venta where we had a bbq evening with several other tourists! Loti labi!! (Very nice)
Thanks Stefan! Kuldiga sounds quite lovely in the summer, I will definitley have to visit there again! I’ve been to Liepaja, but do need to explore more of the coast – and the whole country for that matter! Ventspils and Cesis are on the short list. Visu labu! 🙂
Kuldiga is much more lively during summer – crowds of tourists and visitors are coming. If you want to stay there during summer you have to book a room several months before arrival. Some if my relatives live in Kuldiga, so I’ve been there plenty of times and I know that this town doesn’t loose its charm even in winter. Though I love most how Kuldiga looks like in autumn when the red and yellow leaves of trees add extra colour to the beauty of this town.
Ooh, I bet it is beautiful in autumn! I will definitely have to make another trip to Kuldiga, if not several!
Gorgeous buildings and I love your sunset shots too. Kuldiga looks like a lovely peaceful town to spend a few days or longer. Thanks for sharing, I didn’t even know it existed!
Thanks, Katie! I’d never heard of Kuldiga before I moved to Latvia and everyone started telling me I had to visit there. I just love hidden gems like that 🙂
It’s been a while since I’ve been to Kuldiga – wonderful photos, especially of dawn over the waterfall!!
Thanks, Daina! It was decidedly easier for this night owl to see the sunrise in winter 🙂
Amazing! I only really passed through Latvia when I visited last year but this year I plan to stay much longer and visit all these little places. I think your blog will become my guidebook!
HA! I better get busy exploring then! 😉
Oh dear! Where are the people in this cute town? I hardly see one. 🙂
Well, to be fair, I did have to wait once or twice for someone to walk out of my shot 😉
There are some really nice views you managed to capture on camera and the buildings are really amazing, even though some of them are not shy when it comes to showing their age 🙂 But a wooden house since the 1600s? Now that’s truly spectacular!
Thanks, Helena! I agree, those ancient wooden houses truly are spectacular 🙂
Kuldiga looks remarkably intact and well deserving of UNESCO heritage site status. I loved the half-timbered building as well as the woodworking evident in the furnishings of the museum’s second floor. Really enjoyed this post! Definitely not your average destination.
Thanks, Lesley! Kuldiga is a very special place and I’m happy to get the word out!
What a charming little place! It really does feel like you’d been transported back to the 17th century!! I especially love the picture with the weeping willow and the ducks on the lake! And the cat one of course 🙂
We saw cats around every corner! It got to the point where we really did feel there were more cats than people 🙂
Kuldiga looks lovely. I like the fact that there weren’t many cars around and even better that there were more cats than people, it looks like my kind of place then! Ehehhe!
Lack of cars was definitely part of the charm, Franca! You know you’ve been out of Asia for a while when cities like Riga start to seem crowded in comparison to towns like this 🙂
Bful pictures !! there is so much to see in EUROPE. love this post..Happy to chance upon your blog 🙂 I blog on ITALY at http://www.ishitasood.blogspot.in
Thanks so much, Ishita!
Hi Heather,
My name is Judy and I’m from Shanghai, China. I now live in Arlington Virginia 🙂
I’m traveling to Riga in April and I’m so glad I found your posts. I have printed your tips and I’m sure I’ll have lots of fun in Riga.
Best,
Judy
Looks like I need to go back and explore more parts of Latvia. I loved Riga and this looks like a town I would love to visit and photograph. Your photos are gorgeous, as always 😀
Latvia is chock full of cute little towns like this, Vlad! I highly recommend renting a car and driving around the countryside.
I have been there in the friend’s marriage…….its so splendorous city……I loved so much
I mean back there again.
JURANDIR AND EVITA
Thanks for your comment, Jurandir and Evita! I also mean to go back to Kuldiga – it’s such a charming little place!