I have seen few landscapes in China as breathtaking as Tiger Leaping Gorge. Formed over millennia by the eroding power of gushing water, the canyon stretches 15 kilometers through China’s southwestern Yunnan Province. The name comes from a legendary tiger that is said to have jumped across the gorge long ago. On the day of our visit, we were greeted by vivid blue skies punctuated with wispy white clouds – a far cry from the often-polluted Shanghai skyline we are used to. The Jinsha River, a tributary of the Yangtze, was as smooth and clear as green-tinted glass. Towering cliffs rise 3,900 meters on both sides at the gorge’s deepest point, and snow-capped mountains grace the not-too-distant horizon. It’s easy to see why this protected area is a part of the Three Parallel Rivers UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The gorge is divided into three areas for visitors – the upper, middle and lower sections. We went to the lower section which is the most easily accessible from Lijiang. A paved path has been carved out of the rocks so if you are keen on actual trekking, the lower section might not be for you. I’ve read that it takes several days to hike the entire length of the gorge and that guesthouses dot the path. We were content just to stroll along for the afternoon, taking in spectacular scenery. It took us just over an hour to walk to the viewing platform, the lower section’s turnaround point, with frequent photo stops along the way. The platform is perched over roaring rapids and is reached by a steep staircase. If you are unable (or uninterested) in walking there or back, extraordinarily strong men are on hand to pull you in a rickshaw. Tickets for the lower section cost 50 kuai per person (about 8 USD).
The First Bend of the Yangtze
A stop worth making on the way to the gorge is an overlook of the Yangtze River’s first bend. The river makes a 180 degree turn, changing direction dramatically from south to north. The 20 kuai entrance fee is a small price to pay for the sweeping views of the countryside replete with terraced fields and ancient villages. Bonus: there is a decent bathroom in the sad little museum on the grounds. Look for the bored guards sitting out front in folding chairs.
Getting There
It is possible to visit Tiger Leaping Gorge in a day-trip from Lijiang. Although just 60 kilometers from the city, it took us about two and a half hours each way thanks to the poor condition of some of the roads. At least the rich scenery along the way was compensation as we bumped unceremoniously along, holding on tight to our seats which lacked safety belts. We rented a Lijiang blue minivan taxi for the day at a cost of 400 kuai (about 66 USD), and would probably spend the extra 200 kuai for an SUV if we had it to do again. Note that the blue minivans will only take visitors to the lower section of the gorge. We were told we could join a Chinese tour group for a hike along the gorge’s middle section for 200 kuai per person, but we opted for the freedom to go at our own pace.
Practicalities
Food options are very limited at the gorge. Our driver discouraged us from visiting the restaurant at the gorge itself and took us to an open air establishment en route. We entered through the kitchen and were instructed to choose our ingredients from a rack of bowls sitting on the floor which would be cooked to order. A whole fish was 200 kuai (about 33 USD) and the meat looked questionable at best, so we went vegetarian for this meal. Though serviceable, we were grateful to have brought along bags of strawberries and cookies for the ride. You might not want to eat much anyway because that will lead to a trip to the restroom. China’s toilets are notoriously “challenging” by Western standards, but the ones at the gorge were a stretch even for me. Luckily I managed to eke out a moment of privacy, with hubby standing guard outside. Privacy seems less valued in this society, but this gal would still like a door!
Is a Tiger Leaping Gorge hike on your bucket list?
$33 for ONE fish? in CHINA? Scam!
Squat toilets with no doors FTW!
I know! Probably because they were the only restaurant around for miles. Other tourists were ordering the fish too. Suckers.
What a spectacular place! The views are incredible and worth the ride to get there. Your camera takes really good pictures. I’m getting a new one before my next trip!!!
You would have loved this portion of the trip – minus the food and the toilet 🙂
Oh, heck-to-the-no on those toilets. I can see myself accidentally stepping in that hole as well. Beautiful landscape!
Yeah they were pretty bad. I kept imagining people dropping their phones down there. But at least you’re greeted by that amazing scenery as soon as you come out!
Ohh I still regret not going to see Tiger Leaping Gorge when we were in China, but we will definitely visit next time we’re in China.
I once dropped my sunglasses in one of those toilets and I reallyreallyreally love my sunglasses so I did what everyone would have done right? I went on my knees and got it out. Single most disgusting thing I have ever done.
Wow, those must have been some amazing sunglasses! Mine would still be in the hole. Hope you had a bucket of hand sanitizer!
The photos are stunning, and that sign is just priceless!
Chinglish always makes me smile 🙂
Great photos! It all looks so different from when I was there in the rainy season crawling along the trail in the muck. Those toilets are actually surprisingly clean for China…they still haven’t gotten on board the whole ‘door’ thing though, I see.
Thanks! We were blessed with nice weather for this trip. I can’t imagine hiking the gorge in the rain! It probably makes for a good story now, but that must have been miserable!
Wow, great photos. I’ve never been there but I love the scenery, really beautiful and so typical for this region. It can be my next China destination 🙂
I was sad to leave that gorgeous scenery! I could definitely spend more time there. There’s just so many fascinating places within China to visit!
OMG!!! That toilet…. but the views are spectacular 🙂
I am so very thankful no one was in there when I walked in!! But the views definitely made up for it 🙂
That’s so beautiful! Haha what’s up with all the doors being taken down at the toilets?
I don’t know, but I’m sure glad it was empty when I walked in!
Ok – I’m used to seeing the holes-in-the-ground for toilets, but no doors! Awkward! Also, that caution sign is priceless! This looks like a great day trip – beautiful scenery!
I wish I could have bottled up some of that blue sky and taken it back to Shanghai! The toilet, though, that was something else. I was incredibly thankful it was empty when I walked in!
Wow! I am planning to go to China for three weeks, but your pictures are seriously making me want to spend more time there!
Thanks! Definitely make sure Yunnan is on your itinerary – it’s beautiful there! Have a great trip!!
Hi there, thanks for the interesting information. We are going to Tiger Leaping Gorge in 4 weeks, probably only to the first bend. Another blog I read says there are Western style toilets in a little museum there……..can you tell me where the photo of the toilets were taken…….thanks
Gail New Zealand
Hi Gail, I’m so excited for you! Tiger Leaping Gorge is truly breathtaking!
The photo of the toilets (if you can call them that) was taken about halfway along the lower gorge path. There are less objectionable toilets at the museum near the first bend of the Yangtze, meaning there are stalls with doors, but they are still squatters. I didn’t see any Western-style toilets available. However, it’s been a year and a half since I was there so the facilities could have been improved since then. Good luck and enjoy!