Summer weather in Latvia can be surprisingly warm given its Northern European location. Come July, locals flock to the Baltic Sea shore in droves. One of Latvia’s best beaches, Jurmala, features thirty-two kilometers of pristine white sand and tranquil blue water. What began as a collection of humble farming villages has become the premier beach resort in the Baltics. Don’t expect to find glitzy high-rise hotels crowding the coast, however. Nature reigns supreme in Latvia and the beachfront remains mostly free of development. In fact, the fourteen townships the make up the whole of Jurmala barely peek through the surrounding pine forest!
Dzintari and Majori are the two main towns within Jurmala and are connected by a pedestrian street lined with shops and cafes. The quiet neighborhood is dotted with charming wooden Art Nouveau cottages, many of which have been restored and converted into restaurants and inns. It’s easy to get from Riga to Jurmala beach by train. The ride from Riga’s Central Station to Majori Station takes just a half hour, making this a very easy day trip from the city. (Click here for train schedules and ticket prices.)
The dominant feature of the Jurmala skyline is the Baltic Beach Hotel, which looks a bit like a cruise ship that’s washed ashore. Situated literally on top of the sand dunes, the guest room views are tough to beat. Lounge chairs, umbrellas, and private cabanas are available for anyone to rent, though I was told that on busy days hotel guests take priority over the general public. The Hotel’s Beach Bar & Grill is a great option for lunch that’s surprisingly affordable given the prime seaside location.
No trip to Jurmala would be complete without a visit to the spa. The Baltic Beach Hotel Spa Center is one of the largest in Northern Europe and offers hundreds of treatments that promote health and relaxation. I went for the Hot Chocolate Cosmetic Body Wrap, which supposedly moisturizes and rejuvenates the skin. This entailed being slathered from head to toe in a warm chocolate mixture, wrapped in plastic sheets and covered with towels, and left to marinate for 30 minutes while I daydreamed about dessert.
Access to the spa’s Banja bath complex was included in the treatment cost. The rustically-styled suite includes two saunas, or pirts, of differing degrees of heat. One steam room was so sweltering I could only stay inside for a few minutes, while the other was more tolerable. The humid air reportedly increases circulation and lung function, purifies the body and clears out your pores.
After sitting in the sauna for as long as possible, you are supposed to cool your body down. This can be done sitting in the spa’s “ice room,” which has a big pile of snow you can rub over yourself. Other options including dumping a bucket of ice water over your head and jumping into a pool of bitterly cold water (both highly desirable post-sauna activities in these parts). I opted instead for the more temperate waters of the central wading pool. Note that the complex is co-ed and, during my visit, not everyone was wearing their swimsuit. Some things you cannot un-see.
(You can read more about the Latvian sauna experience in this post.)
Have you ever been to the Baltic coast?
What’s the most interesting spa treatment you’ve ever gotten abroad?
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Jan says
Well, that looks like a 5 star day!! You must have thought you’d died and gone to heaven when they slathered you in chocolate.
And the warm summer? They’re reeling you in slowly….
Heather Hall says
It was a pretty great day – and it was so reasonably priced that I’m sure there will be a repeat or two 🙂
Jess @UsedYorkCity says
That spa sounds lovely, and I love your treatment choice!;-) The most interesting spa experience I had abroad was in Japan, where I realized when I got there that everyone hangs out in the nude;-) Definitely took a minute to get used to…!
I love the cottages, and the sea looks wonderful too! You really lucked out with that amazing weather, yay!
Heather Hall says
Haha, I am well versed in the Japanese spa culture. On my first visit to an onsen, I was traveling with a female friend and we happened to be the only two foreigners there that day. But once we got over the fact that we were naked in public, it was actually pretty relaxing!
Daina says
That sounds like a fantastic spa experience!!! The entire place looks comfortable and welcoming. And that changing/locker room – loveliest one I’ve ever seen! Regarding the weather, it seems that Latvia was warmer than usual, and DC was cooler than usual last month. I certainly enjoyed that (sleeping with windows open in DC in July – fantastic!), and sounds like you are, as well!
Heather Hall says
This was probably one of the loveliest spa experiences I’ve had, especially for the price. They’ve won a repeat customer, that’s for sure!
mom says
What a beautiful place. I love the hotel. It does look
like a cruise ship washed ashore. Do they have
curling irons at the sauna? My hair would look like
a frizz pot. We’ll need to go and walk around the
back streets. Should be fun.
Heather Hall says
I will definitely be taking you here, I think you’d love it. I didn’t see any curling irons, but it will be winter so you’ll be wearing a hat outside anyway 😉
Amanda @ Farsickness says
Looks like a lovely day trip! I can’t believe how reasonably priced the spa treatment was. I’m very jealous 🙂
Oh, and co-ed nudity in Europe is something I don’t think I’ll ever get used to.
Heather Hall says
I know, I still can’t believe how much I got for the money. They definitely won themselves a repeat customer! I bet it will be super enjoyable in the winter when it’s freezing outside, naked old man butts and all 🙂
Ryan says
The beaches on the Baltic are so underrated—it’s hard to imagine that beautiful white sand beaches and dunes exist so far up north in Europe! Never really been to a spa while travelling, but I’m sure if my wife saw these pictures she’d love to join in the next time I travel up to the Baltic States 🙂 Thanks for sharing, Heather!
Heather Hall says
Thanks, Ryan! I’ll be checking out another Baltic beach in Latvia this weekend that’s supposed to be even more beautiful.
I’m learning that saunas are a big part of the culture here. You should definitely check it out when you’re next in the area. I bet your wife isn’t the only one who’d enjoy it! 😉
Monika Sharma says
Wow such a amazing & Beautify Collection of great pictures of Baltic Sea ! I never have been at Baltic Sea But I wish to enjoy at Baltic Sea ! So Let’s see when turn comes to be at Baltic Sea !
Laura says
Glad you’re enjoying not only Riga! 🙂
I wanted to tell you to that Jurmala beach isn’t the best one in Latvia – it’s a popular place for tourists, but not good for the beaches. If you really want to relax by the beach and enjoy the peaceful landscape, then I would recommend heading down anywhere between Roja and Kolka. It’s a little bit long ride from Riga (1-1,5 h), but it’s nice to go on a weekend. Even better beaches are near Liepāja , Nica (those are personally my favourite).
Heather Hall says
Thanks so much, Laura! We are actually heading to Liepaja this weekend and I can’t wait to check out the beach!
Joy @MyTravelingJoys says
Latvia is definitely on our travel list while we live in Poland! Thanks for sharing all your photos!
The most interesting spa treatment I’ve had was a head-to-toe chocolate body scrub while we were on our honeymoon in Belize! I smelled delicious! 😉
Heather Hall says
You should definitely visit Latvia! It’s such a beautiful and fascinating place. Poland is on our travel wish list so maybe our paths will cross.
That chocolate body scrub sounds divine!
Andrea says
Wow, pure luxury! This looks SO relaxing
Heather Hall says
It was incredibly relaxing! I will definitely be taking all my guests 🙂
Adrienne @ AdrienneAway says
Amazing pics! I’m pretty jealous 😉
Heather Hall says
You’ll just have to schedule yourself a spa day! 🙂
escapehunter says
I’d imagine it cold, cold… But interestingly they have such a vast sandy beach.
Interesting article.
Who’d think of beach travel to Latvia?
Heather Hall says
I know, I was surprised too! I imagine people from Sweden have been in on the secret for a while. The weather was actually quite warm during our visit, and the water temperature was comfortable. The summer season is very short, though.
Colleen Brynn says
Love those little cottages. Definitely good reason to stray from the main road.
Your skin is beautiful – that spa looks like it was good for you, but I bet you are normally that luminous!
Heather Hall says
Thank you, Colleen! That’s such a nice thing to say! My dad has had skin cancer, so I’m diligent with the sunscreen. I sadly don’t achieve luminosity every day, but maybe if I started going to this spa once a week…
Franca says
I’m usually not the kind of person that relaxes in baths and spas, but this place looks fantastic and I think for once I would just enjoy it if I had the chance and make the most of it 🙂
Heather Hall says
It’s good to treat yourself every once in a while! I will be taking my Mom when she comes to Latvia to visit me 🙂
Elizabeth says
That is hilarious that some people don’t wear clothes in a co-ed spa. Good to know!
Heather Hall says
I’ve since been back with some Finnish ladies who went topless and nobody batted an eye! I think it’s just us Americans who are uptight about such things LOL!