Situated along the Baltic Sea about 50 kilometers north of the Lithuanian border, Liepaja is the western-most city in Latvia. It is also the third largest city in Latvia, with a population of around 75,000. Liepaja is perhaps most famous (in the Baltics, anyway) for its long stretch of white sand beach which is even less developed than Jurmala. A 70 hectare park abuts the beach, ensuring that no buildings can be erected to spoil the view. This is contrary to everything I know about beach “resorts,” which tend to be over-developed to the point where all ocean-side real estate is covered with glass and steel – Miami and Myrtle Beach, I’m looking at you. But in Latvia, nature takes precedence.
Liepaja is sometimes referred to as the “city where wind was born.” There’s even a sculpture of a wind-blown maiden looking out to sea from atop the grass-covered dunes. But there was nary a trace of this wind during my visit. The sea was still and the waves, if you can call them that, were remarkably gentle.
Some people visit Liepaja only for its beach, but the city has so much more to offer! In addition to being Latvia’s own Windy City, Liepaja is considered the country’s rock and roll capital. It even has its own Walk-of-Fame featuring the hand prints of Latvian musicians. Liepaja has a university-town vibe, with an apparent focus on the arts. The city boasts a beautiful array of historic architectural styles, from 17th-century wood houses to 19th-century Art Nouveau. One of the oldest buildings is a hotel once stayed in by Peter the Great of Russia!
Things To Do in Liepaja
The Liepaja Museum has a surprisingly robust collection of Latvian treasures ranging from wood carvings and medieval weapons to still-life paintings and modern art installations. There is an interesting exhibit on the city’s seafaring history that includes artifacts picked up on journeys around the world. I was stunned to see two pairs of tiny bound-feet shoes from China! The museum was opened in 1924 and is the largest in the region. It’s housed in a striking early-20th century mansion and is worth stopping in for the fabulous interior alone.
Another “must see” is the House of Craftsmen. The red brick building, once used as Soviet army barracks, now houses the workshops for a dozen or more Latvian artists specializing in traditional handicrafts. I was taken on a tour of the building though I only caught about half what the guide was explaining in her rapid-fire Latvian. I was shown many of the individual workshops and saw demonstrations in the arts of basket weaving, pottery making and leather tooling. Another woman showed me how she made traditional textiles using a loom. I was the only visitor there and the ladies seemed delighted at my interest in their work. Once it came out that I was American, they showed me postcards sent to them from relatives in the States. I only wish my Latvian were better so I could have chatted with them some more!
Other cultural riches on display include Latvian national costumes and the largest piece of amber art in the world. There is a marvelous gift shop where the artists sell their creations.
Liepaja has many historic churches, but if you only have time to visit one, make it the Holy Trinity Lutheran Church. While the crumbling 18th century exterior might not look like much, the interior was absolutely breathtaking. (And of course no photos were allowed.) Every surface seemed to be covered in gold and a raised box near the altar looked as though it had been created for royalty – a crown and coat of arms were emblazoned on the front. For a few euros, I climbed the rickety wooden stairs to the top of the church’s spire and was rewarded with lovely views of the city.
Peter’s Market is a lively spot where locals shop for everything from baked goods and fresh produce to flowers and pet supplies. The pretty red brick building was built in 1910, though apparently vendors have been selling their wares from the adjacent square for centuries.
Where To Stay
I spent the weekend at the Promenade Hotel, a beautifully-converted 18th-century warehouse facing the canal. Although parts of the building are several hundred years old, it has been thoroughly modernized to become Liepaja’s premiere luxury hotel. The spacious lobby doubles as a gallery, showcasing works by local artists.
Where To Eat in Liepaja
I ate dinner at the hotel because it was convenient, and would recommend it because the food was delicious. If you try only one local specialty, make it “Liepaja’s Cod.” The deeply satisfying dish consists of pork fillet, potatoes, onions and smoked cod that are simmered in a clay pot with a rich cream sauce. You will want your own bowl.
For a nice meal in the old town, head to the Postman’s House (Pastnieka maja). I just had time for a quick lunch before catching my back to Riga, but would definitely return. My chicken Caesar salad was excellent and I enjoyed sitting on their flower-bedecked patio.
If you’re in need of an afternoon pick-me-up, don’t miss Boulangerie. This charming cafe serves up heavenly macaron confections along with a wide array of beverages. I also hear they have a nice weekend brunch.
While you’re in Liepaja, don’t miss Karosta Prison. This historical correctional facility was used by the Soviet navy to punish and reform its wayward sailors. It’s the only military prison in Europe that’s open to the public! Karosta is located about four kilometers from downtown Liepaja. You can read about my tour of the prison here.
Would you like to visit Liepaja? What’s your favorite little-known city?
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Wow, I’ve never heard of this place before, but it’s so historical and beautiful! It has beach, great food and so many fantastic museums to explore. What food did you enjoy the most there?
I hope more people outside of the Baltics learn about this place! It really is special.
I most enjoyed the potato waffles I had as an appetizer with dinner at the hotel. They were paper thin and crispy, and topped with herbed cheese and salmon roe. So good!
Wow Heather, what a nice discovery. I have to agree with Agness, Liepaja has it all and it must be pretty hard to get bored there. I love the look of the market of course, markets are always my favourite 🙂
Franca, it is a rather small place, but the architecture alone would keep you and Dale happy for days! There are also some music festivals there that you might find interesting.
I take your words for it Heather! Plus if there is live music we are even more happy 🙂
Sounds like you had a great time! You make the place look good! 🙂
It’s a great city! And those ladies at the artist center were adorable. I think Daugavpils will be the true test of my abilities 🙂
You’ll probably love it! 😉 And people will definitely be happy to see you as you’ll probably be the only people there 😉
Cool! I see I’m not alone in that I’ve never heard of Liepaja, but now I really want to go! I’m especially impressed by the art scene there – looks right up my street!
I love the little surprises travel can unearth. Who would have guessed that a former Soviet war port on the far reaches of the Baltic Sea would have such an interesting art and music scene? I can’t wait to see what else Latvia has to offer!
What great pictures. Looks like a place I would enjoy.
A lot of the food looked good too. The hotel was
gorgeous. Really liked the lobby and the covered
porch. Sounds like you picked a great place for your
first getaway.
It was definitely a success!
As always – fantastic photos, and a great post! So glad you had good weather and that you really got to explore Liepaja. Hope you picked up some cool souvenirs from the artisan ladies!! The hotel you picked looks wonderful! I’ve been to Liepaja a number of times, but never for very long. Choosing a place to stay on my last visit in May was a challenge only because a number of options all sounded excellent; ended up picking “Hotel Vilhelmine,” which was super comfy and had the most diverse and generous breakfast buffet I’ve seen anywhere! Had dinner at the Postmaster’s House, too, which I loved. But wish I’d known about the Boulangerie – wow, does that treat look scrumptious!
Thanks, Daina! We were blessed with perfect weather, though I’ve been told the northern beach forts are worth seeing in the winter. The artisan ladies loved me – I bought three scarves, three brooches and a few potholders. I would have bought even more but that was all I could carry!
Oh my, that hotel looks exquisite! As amazing as it is that the cities in Latvia seem to blend Hanseatic, Art Nouveau and other architectural styles so seamlessly, the interiors are equally incredible! I love the “old brick cellar” vibe in so many of the restaurants, bars, and apparently also hotels around the country. So cool that you get to live over there and experience all the delights of Latvia so often, Heather!
You are right, Ryan, the seamless blending of architectural styles is incredibly beautiful. It’s also interesting to see such strong Latvian culture considering how many empires have put their stamp on the region. Such a fascinating place!
Wow, such beautiful pictures! The sunset picture is stunning. Thank you for sharing xx
Thank you for the kind comment!
I really love the hotel you guys stayed at, it looks so charming! And those white sand beaches are incredible! My favorite tiny city that I “discovered” a few years back was Bath, England…tiny but adorable!
I’ve heard good things about Bath lately! Sounds like I need to get myself there, and quick!
Wow- so many great photos. It’s very different from China, huh? 🙂
Latvia is just a wee bit different than China 😉
Thanks for introducing me to a city I had never heard of. I love the way you really throw yourself into new places, take as much in as possible and end up with so much advice even after such a short stay. You don’t waste any time! 🙂
I must say I’m very impressed that you could even understand half of what the tour guide was saying. You haven’t been in Latvia that long! That’s awesome.
Excellent post and pictures that I’ll definitely be referencing whenever I get to Liepaja!
Thanks so much Jessica, I appreciate your comment. As a part-time traveler, I try to pack as much into our weekends and vacations as possible. I don’t want to feel like I missed out on anything!
And as for understanding some Latvian, I took an intensive course before we moved here 🙂
Argh, Liepaja looks completely lovely! Like, the exact kind of place I’d love to do a weekend trip to. The beach looks beautiful, ditto the hotel you stayed in! And I’m pretty sure I’d be ordering my own bowl of that Liepaja Cod. I’m a fast eater and would likely devour it before my sharing partner got a real look in…
It was such a relaxing place, Tom! The peak of summer and not crowded at all. Entrance to the art and history museum was just one euro while the tour of the folk art center was completely free. And even at our posh hotel, a big pot of Liepaja’s cod cost just six euros so it’s definitely an affordable place to visit!
So quirky, so pretty and so full of character is Latvia! I love exploring such new unheard places across the globe. Thanks for sharing! 🙂
Latvia has been full of pleasant surprises and I can’t wait to explore even more of this beautiful country 🙂