The Latvian countryside is dotted with castle ruins thanks to the Livonian Knights who once controlled the region. Bauska Castle was built in the mid-15th century and served as a stronghold for over 100 years. After the Knights lost the Livonian War in the mid-16th century, the castle was incorporated into the Duchy of Courland, a newly-established vassal state of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. A manor befitting the Duke soon appeared next to the castle and both structures remained in use until they were blown up during the Great Northern War in 1706. (Don’t worry: a grand new palace soon replaced the manor.)
Today, visitors can clamber to the top of the crumbling castle watchtower for a lovely view of Bauska and the surrounding countryside. The manor house, meanwhile, has been restored and turned into a museum.
The “city” of Bauska (pop. 10,500) was founded in 1609 and seems to have changed little over the centuries. The Old Town consists of two parallel streets lined with charming wooden homes and shops. I began my visit at the Tourist Information Center located on the ground level of the flamingo-pink Town Hall, an excellent source for maps and regional recommendations.
The Bauska History and Art Museum is located directly across the road from Town Hall square and an interesting place to spend an hour. The exhibits at the time of my visit included an extensive private (and somewhat creepy) doll collection and panoramas of life in Bauska throughout the 20th century.
The oldest surviving structure in Bauska is the Church of the Holy Spirit. Its treasures include 17th century wooden pews and tombstones of the original German congregation. Two kindly ladies inside were delighted to have visitors and even more so that I could understand some of their (patiently slow) Latvian explanations. English leaflets are also readily available.
About 10 kilometers from Bauska next to the Lielupe River sits Mezotne Palace. This 18th century beauty was a gift of Russian Empress Catherine II to the nanny of her children, Charlotte von Lieven. Some gift, eh? Too bad Charlotte lived in St. Petersburg and was able to spend only a single day enjoying her palace, which passed to her son after her death; Mezotne remained in the Lieven family until 1939. Heavily damaged during World War II, the three-story palace has since been fully restored and converted into a hotel.
I don’t recommend dining at Mezotne’s onsite restaurant – fit neither for king nor peasant – but do suggest enjoying a sunset stroll along the riverbank.
A much better dining option is Tornis Taverna, which can be found in Bauska’s Town Hall Square. Order the mushroom-and-cheese stuffed chicken and a pint of locally-brewed Bauska beer – you won’t regret it!
Another good dining option is the restaurant at Rundale Palace, the region’s main tourist attraction. Again, order the chicken – Bauska is one of the leading poultry producers in the Baltic states.
Rundale Palace is an 18th century Baroque masterpiece constructed for the Dukes of Courland. Although it suffered tremendously during WWII and the subsequent Soviet Occupation, the palace has been fully restored to its former splendor. You can find my detailed article on Rundale Palace here.
It’s possible to visit all the places in this post via public buses, though the journey will be easier and more enjoyable with your own wheels. I rented a car in Riga and loved having the freedom to pull over and admire the scenic countryside.
Would you like to explore Bauska Castle and Latvia’s pretty palaces?
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So glad you’re writing about these places, I’d never have heard about them otherwise. I had to laugh at that photo with the weird tiled heater as I have something similar in my apartment in Budapest.
I’m so jealous you have one of those fancy heaters in your apartment! Many homes have them here in Riga, too, but our landlord modernized our apartment and took all the fancy old stuff out.
What a wonderful blog post! This was such a great trip. Bauska was a neat place to start our castle/palace tour. The restoration of the manor house was wonderful. And those floors! The crumbling ruins of the castle are definitely worth a visit. Mezotne was in a pretty location. I enjoyed my first stay in a palace! The second floor museum area is really beautiful. Worth a visit on its own. The prize though is Rundale. It is just breathtaking. I could visit there again and again. I don’t have enough adjectives to describe how beautiful it is. Really, really enjoyed this trip.
I’m so glad! I’ve been thinking that we’d do something similar on your next visit, rent a car and go off exploring. There’s just so much to see!
I would LOVE to explore these palaces…the insides are stunning, and really bring you back to an era of elegance! (I love the mint walls!;-) This fall we’re planning a little road trip upstate to do fallish things–pumpkin picking, cider drinking, and a little hike! Excited for that one!
It’s such a miracle these places weren’t totally lost to WWII or the Soviets! Actually, I read that Mezotne was saved due to its use by some agricultural society. Thank goodness for small favors!
Have fun upstate! Autumn was always my favorite season in the U.S. Oh how I miss apple cider donuts!!
Looks like you made the most of your road trip! And – as always – absolutely gorgeous photos. I actually spent a night at the Mezotne castle one summer 10 years ago – it was quite nice!
Thanks, Daina! I had hoped to swing by the Dobele castle ruins on this trip as well but ran out of time. There is definitely another Latvian road trip in my future! 🙂
Lovely photos! Thanks for showing us this part of the world. As I live in California now, where things built in 1950 are considered old, it’s nice to see some of the proper historical stuff!
Thanks, Joella! The Virginia town where I grew up is similarly young and I have such an appreciation for Europe’s old architecture. It’s amazing to think that many of these buildings were standing before the US was even born!